Peru Through My Eyes : Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu
- Arny Lay
- Aug 3
- 8 min read
There are moments when I look back at my life and wonder how all the pieces fit together. Some memories are painful. Some are filled with laughter. Others make me question everything. It’s like going for a run until your lungs burn. Every instinct tells you to stop, yet somehow you find another step. Another breath. Another kilometre. I’ve realised life works the same way. The moments that make you want to quit don’t always mean you’ve reached your limit. Sometimes they’re proof you’re capable of more.
So here I am, putting myself out of the box. Because believe it or not, oftentimes I find myself saying, I am a beach person. And without realizing it, again I put myself in a box. If I didn’t look past it, if I didn’t take myself out of that box, I wouldn’t do this trip, wouldn’t do this trek and wouldn’t meet these amazing people.
So enjoy the step I took on the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. I’d love to share my raw experience during this trek. I’ll be honest, some days I felt scared to my bones, some days I felt so full of energy and some days I and especially my lungs and legs were asking me, ‘What the heck are you doing ?’
Salkantay Trek and The Pachamama Team
So Robin warned us that the second day was the hardest part, because we were going to hike towards the highest point of this trek. And it is indeed the hardest part of the hike. I can feel the pressure on my head, how my lungs struggle for air. It was a tragedy waiting to happen. But the view ! Snow-covered peaks towered above us while the valley stretched endlessly below. Vicuñas wandered through the grass as if we weren’t there at all. Tiny wildflowers bloomed between the scattered rocks, adding splashes of yellow and purple to a landscape that seemed impossibly rugged, while the only sounds were the wind and our boots against the trail. I looked up to the sky and thought to myself, that I am so so grateful for that day, that moment. Out of all the other places and people, I was there at that moment, with the right partners. It’s just amazed me really, how this universe works.
Anyway, we passed the hardest part with all my breakfast staying in place and I lay down on the grass, staring at the sky more than I could count. And I remembered Dan asking me if I was going to pass out, because my face was as pale as a ghost. We stopped at the sign of Salkantay mountain and took about thirty minutes to rest.
When everyone gathers, we eat our snacks and take pictures and listen to Robin explaining the history of Salkantay trek, well so Salkantay is a Quechua word sallqa in english means savage, wild and invincible. We picked a name for our group which ended up to be Pachamama which means mother earth. It’s fitting since in this hiking trip we are in a way coming back to the earth, being more grounded and just putting our trust in nature.
Robin led us to do an offering to the mountain and it is one of the most beautiful things I ever witnessed. We stacked a flat stone in front of the mountain and put one coca leaf in between each stack, and said our gratitude to mother earth. It’s one of the moments where I discovered that I love discovering culture and beliefs. I felt like my heart was so full at that moment, even now as I type this blog post.
We walked down the mountain but it was a bit easier on that section—it was all down the hill at this point. We stopped at our lunch spot and ate lunch. We also get some Wi-Fi—well, nothing is free, so 5 soles it is. I remember it was one of my friend's birthdays so I sent her a quick text and posted something on Instagram. In my defence, I didn’t post much before this trip. It wouldn't hurt for a little happy face post, would it ?
We arrived at our campsite during sunset, after the shower which I happily paid 10 soles for hot water—what ? Sue me. It’s a well needed hot water alright…
We ate dinner in silence and went to one of our teammate’s huts to play uno. At this point playing uno is a ritual in this trek. Sometimes I am still smiling when I see a deck of uno cards. Robin did his round of the night, checking in on us. And I think it was so sweet of him. He told us to sleep because we are going to start the hike very early.
Just like that, we rolled into day three of the hike. It genuinely felt like I was doing this hike for literally forever and at the same time it feels like time just flies, you know. Just when you have a good time, enjoying yourself.
That morning, same as every other morning Robin woke us up. He knocked on my hut door and gave me coca tea. We chatted a bit and he asked about how I feel, about my altitude sickness and all. It’s a simple thing really. But the group contained 10 people and I wasn’t the only one who got attacked by the altitude sickness, but the thought that he still remembered to check in, I would never stop singing him praises.
Mountain Side Supercut
We started the hike and Robin told us that we have two choices: easy way or hard way. Don’t know why I stood by the hardway group so we ended up walking through this narrow way in the cliff. I kid you not. It was honest to God scary. Not me selling my soul for the sake of adventure after barely surviving altitude attacks. But it was a really fun day. We painted our faces with plants and Robin said it was how the Inca’s army covered their faces when they were about to go on a war with the Spanish.
I was walking with two other girls when this random person came and said that he knew a spot to see the stars tonight. Ugh. My instincts immediately told me something felt off. I didn’t want to say yes, but I also didn’t know how to say no without feeling rude. It’s funny how often women are taught to prioritise politeness over their own comfort.
I caught up with Dan and quietly explained what had happened. Without making it a big deal, he simply said we’d stay together that evening. That small gesture made me feel safe again.
Anyway, we got to the camp a bit earlier and walked around the camp ground, played uno or just chilling on the swing or hammock. I write in my journal while waiting for Dan to do his laundry. Apparently he just brought 3 pairs of socks, so the laundry was urgent.
Dinner and last night's briefing came and went. This was our last night on the hut. And everyone might get a different hotel or hostel. So I was feeling a bit mellow.
We share a bottle of pisco, and talking by the camp fire, we dance barefoot on the grass and just share random stories. I felt more close to these people than people I have known for years. Maybe it was because we had seen each other at our worst—out of breath, exhausted, covered in dust, battling altitude sickness, laughing through the pain, and still choosing to keep going. There was nothing to hide behind on that mountain. We were simply ourselves.
I would like to remember them for years to come. These memories on the mountain side where strangers get to know each other and just bond, is one of the memories I want to hold close. This is definitely part of the supercut of my life.
We went back to our hut around eleven o’clock and I would say that pisco was so strong. I mean my steps were swayed after 4 shots. Yet no amount of alcohol could push away the anxiety that I felt because of that guy earlier. Dan asked if I wanted him to move his sleeping bag to my hut. And I said yes in a heartbeat. I almost fell asleep when I heard someone calling my name and woke us up. At first we pretended to be fast asleep but this man kept calling for about ten minutes, then Dan decided he had enough and walked out. ‘What’s up man ?’ That’s all he said and that guy got scared and made excuses that he was just checking on me because of my altitude sickness. He left right after that. Oh well, to be a girl and travel alone.
Road by the Railway to Machu Picchu
Well, well, well, day four. The nostalgic feelings I get when I write this are overwhelming. I started to think about my friends, how are they doing now? Were they thinking about our journey in that valley too? Because I do, every now and then.
I got to this view point where we saw Machu Picchu or the mountain range surrounding it. It’s crazy, really. It looks so close yet so far. And all of a sudden, I felt like the time where I puked and thought of giving up wasn’t just three days ago. Do you get the same feelings when you read this ? It feels like this was just a week ago but in fact, I hiked Salkantay trek four years ago. The concept of time sometimes scared me. It’s so abstract but also so real at the same time.
Day four was the easiest, but also the longest. Especially when we walked along the railway tracks. Usually, this train carries travellers straight to Aguas Calientes, the small town before Machu Picchu. At that point, I was covered in dust and looked like I had just survived a month-long survival show. The road felt endless.
When we finally made it to Aguas Calientes, my feet felt like jelly. I still don’t know how I managed to keep walking instead of simply lying down on the ground. Every step hurt, and all I wanted was a shower and a bed.
But tomorrow was the reason we had all come here.
Tomorrow, after four days of aching legs, altitude sickness, shared meals, endless games of Uno, and strangers who had somehow become friends, we would finally stand before Machu Picchu.
Seeing Machu Picchu had been my dream since high school. If I could send a letter back to my younger self, I would tell that girl to sleep well. To stop overthinking so much. Because one day, we would actually stand in front of the place we used to admire through a screen.
That night, after our last dinner together as a group, we walked around Aguas Calientes. It was a beautiful little town, with narrow streets winding down the hills, small shops and cafes glowing warmly at night, and travellers wandering through the cobblestone streets after their own long journeys.
It wasn’t an easy journey. There were moments I questioned myself, moments where my body begged me to stop, and moments where I wondered if I was capable of finishing.
But I wouldn’t change it for the world.
Machu Picchu
So yeah… Machu Picchu.
I originally thought I could fit the final destination into this post. Maybe two or three paragraphs about arriving, taking pictures, and seeing the famous ruins. But as I write this, I realise that wouldn’t be enough.This place deserves more than a few sentences. It deserves the story of what it feels like to finally arrive after everything it took to get there.
So, thank you for walking this part of the journey with me. If you've made it this far, I hope you can understand why the Salkantay Trek become so much more than a hike. But the journey isn't over yet.
I'll share what it felt like to finally stand in front of Machu Picchu after dream about it for years.
If you haven't already you can also read Peru Through My Eyes : The Magic of Cusco and the Beginning of Salkantay Trek, where I share about the begining of this trek and Cusco.
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